If the warning for rearview mirrors reads "objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear," then the warning for the Sun Wah Bar-B-Q Restaurant should caution "restaurant is larger than it actually appears." That's because the restaurant's take-out counter jumps out immediately. There's so much activity occurring there (such as formerly alive birds now destined for barbecue fame and glory hanging in the window and loud conversing in languages that the workers know first and best) that it's simple to conclude that Sun Wah is the size of a closet where you have to order on the go, go, go, go!

But worry not: You can actually sit down, order and have yourself a good time. Walk through the door to find a large open area. The menu is large, with a moderate amount of options for vegetarians, and a price that's just as appealing, around $3-$5 (seafood items are double the price). Portions cover the entire plate, so be sure to bring your appetite. I was unable to finish my barbecue pork on rice and haven't been able to forgive myself since. Service is extraordinarily quick, and the restaurant is sparsely populated with locals. However, as the actual lunch hour approaches, Sun Wah gets more and more crowded. The fortune in my fortune cookie stated "you are welcome in many ways," and given the friendly nature of the service, it seems completely appropriate.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jon Graef