Set among an underdeveloped portion of the West Loop, City Pool Hall's bright white sign, with its martini and stylish pool shark icon, virtually screams at the passersby to come in, grab a bite and rack a game or two. Folks who submit to the sign's pleas will find a dozen tables and a nearly equal number of TVs waiting inside.

The management advertises the tables as being the best in the city, and while I am wholly unqualified to confirm or deny such a judgment, I can say they are good enough to maintain a steady flow of pool-playing clients. The menu has a long list of typical bar snacks, pizzas, salads and surprisingly inventive sandwiches. Nearly every meal comes in at less than $10, so even if you get hustled out of your shirt, you can still fill your belly. In homage to the portly billiards legend, you can order the Minnesota Fats burger, a healthy slab of ground chuck with jack cheese, bacon and an onion ring.

With its exposed, warehouse-style ceiling and its splashy bar top, City Pool Hall elicits a somewhat trendy mood. The shade of mauve that distinguishes the bar top replicates itself throughout the hall, balanced only by the tinges of white that are similarly ubiquitous. Autographed pictures of what I can only assume are semi-famous pool players ring the establishment, lending it a sense of credibility for pool purists.

Centerstage Reviewer: Patrick Corcoran